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A springtime of temptation.
A summer of energetic collisions and crazy contradictions between perfection and approximation.

A season of dynamic combinations for a clear affirmation of the power of fashion, of the vital attraction of futility and multiplicity, of the strength of difference and of refinement wooed by impertinence.

A season of fertile confrontations, where a natural feeling is magnified and fantasy is affirmed with refinement, where surfaces move and irregularity is controlled, where an outward simplicity is elaborated with skilful complexity, where plains exalt themselves with textile fantasy and virtuoso finishings, where consistency is emphasized and aesthetics embrace impertinence, where references and colours are whetted to get ahead of future needs and favour a sensitive, sensual and emotional appropriation of fabric.

A spring summer of fruitful meetings and attractions to succumb to the sting of purity, to give oneself over to the eloquence of nature and to enthuse over the rowdiness of nuance.


THE STING OF PURITY
Charmed by the consuming temptation of the absolute, elegance becomes a personal matter with the fineness and skill of an artisan. It treats itself to the luxury of elaborating precision, succumbs to the grace and virtuosity of a flawless purity, to give birth to a minimalism enriched by poetry and humour. A willing predilection for sobriety, one that offhandedly moves away from standards, and light-handedly parodies itself.

Fabrics of an extreme precision to affirm the perfectionist demands of clothing manufacture. Fabric behaviours to sublimate the architecture of silhouettes, with an extraordinary and ongoing obsession with seduction, with structuring in a different way.

Fabrics of a demanding roundness, of virtuoso firmness or crunchy handles, emerge alongside rigorous fluidity, demonstrating practiced skill. Mohair blends and raw silks, along with organdies and organzas, flirt with cotton crepes, matt wool or linen, with handles that are occasionally dried, austere, controlled. Coatings and crunchy impregnations reveal a harmony between fabric and treatment to achieve just the right rustle and behaviour.

Floating lightness, weightless knits or ethereal wovens are used jointly to layer and veil without revealing.

A noble lustre is combined with the nonchalant, with the luxuriously relaxed, with the delicately poorly ironed. Silky reflections evoke a porcelain delicacy, cottons are carefully mercerised, wools and linens softly chintzed. The power of elegance escapes received ideas, tactfully playing on bold collisions.

Fabrics with magnanimously soberand discreet visuals, variations in weaves and subtle colour. Ultra-plains in fancy elaborations that capture an erudite delicacy. Deeper in colour, denims, suitings, fluid silks and embroideries are tightened, with ultra-dark tones. Jacquards, figureds and fancy wovens move into linen, wool or extra-fine cotton. Patterns are revealed in perfect monochromes with geometric and structured constructions.

A visual moderation upset by the complex simplicity of graphic plays, closely allied two-tones, geometrics, stripes, squares. Drawn and pared down wovens often interrupted by deviations.



THE ELOQUENCE OF NATURE
Seduced by romance and the technical, nature imposes itself with brio. It dives with conviction into an affirmation of difference, it enthuses over its limitless source s of inspiration. It affirms the contrast between authentic appearance and the awareness of its weaknesses. It upholds the opposites of chicness and relax ed, innocence and knowledge, nostalgia and foresight, organic and research. It imposes a cheery and curious outlook on functionality by researching true and seductive, intelligent and modest products. It generously opens a dialogue between environmental awareness and a seductive aesthetic. It persuades, with panache, of the power of its resources, for tomorrow's better days.

manifestly vegetal
Exalting the authenticity of natural materials, and cheering up rusticity with established charms. Revealing linen in all its splendour, without concession. Linen is refine d to the extreme, verging on preciousness and transparency, or, conversely, grows weighty and more noble, with a supple generosity. Sturdy plain weaves and twills are embellished with fancy woven stripes, flirt with references to functional rural clothing, and develop reassuring visuals, whether jacquard or printed, embroidery and applique. A natural ultra-matt ness, either cottony or linen-y, is exalted through research into structures, openwork, generous eyelets and laces with majestically supple and soft handles. Vibrating whites and ecrus set off by fresh graphics, beaming handkerchief checks, overtly disperse d floral prints and chambrays radiant with white.

sparkling country
Joyously nostalgic but playful, deliciously romantic but grating, fabrics deck themselves in memories of yesteryear. Ginghams, figured checks and stripes as well as floral prints, mini-florals that are scattered or generously round step in this season, to the delight of the senses. Reworked with panache, surfaces shiver or are adorned in partial treatments, gaining visual and tactile softness and almost making patterns disappear. Refinement blows through bucolic patterns and tickings, and fibres are blended in subtle dialogue to marry linen with wool, and silk with cotton, ramie or paper.

synthesized organic
Viewpoints on nature and its observation change for a more scientific angle, inviting an interest in bio-mimetic technologies and ecological research, in biologic imagery. The qualities of artificial vegetal fibres are lent new value with, for example, the properties and qualities of bamboo, but also environmentally friendly manufacturing processes. Nature is studied under a microscope, and its molecular structures interpreted in lace, jacquards or prints. It creates imaginary networks, improbable florals, and bizarre insects. In the hands of its creators, an ordered nature aligns itself in delicious grids or perturbed lines.

THE ROWDINESS OF NUANCE
Attracted by precision, nuance kicks up a stir. It draws from the essential universe of fabric emotion to make the senses vibrate and to answer to the needs of appropriation. Generosity and volume are expressed through fineness and multiplicity. The power of nuance is attached to the spontaneous, the living, the evolving, and the future, both in a personal and universal sense.

Fabrics with motion and emotion favour movement with rippling surfaces and fabrics that move. Volumes are exposed in all lightness to tuck into cottony freshness and curl up in silk. Crepons, seersuckers, wrinkled fabrics and cloques grow fine to shiver on the skin. Undeniably freshened, the most visually classic fabrics take on a nonchalant allure. Knits, jacquards, denims and even chiffons adopt particularly ingenious and luxurious handles through simply washed treatments. Casualness drives research into sensuality to the point of creating fabrics with a questionable limpness, fabrics that are almost inert, phlegmatic, hugging the skin.

Shine is nuanced in modulated reflections and evokes variations in tender, vacillating and undulating light. Crystal reflections are discreetly revealed through coatings, inserted yarns, soft appliques and impalpable laces. Fabrics of a rare refinement are powdered with gold dust. Silks as well as jeans and linens are adorned with light and spidery reflections, or, in contrast, play a dramatic role by grazing noble metals with black.

Evolutive decorations underline the versatile aspect of fancies. Motifs unfold from the sketched-out to the fully completed, layering effects and techniques with cut-yarn jacquards, burnt-outs on prints. Patterns are softened in places without ever losing the memory of their essential ingredients. They are pictorial with broad traces of paint mixed with delicate flowers. Yarn-dyes are partially modified, now and then interrupted or attenuated. Checks are refined to the limits of perceptibility. Stripes lose a parallel notion with ikat effects. Fabrics to imagine unique pieces in the making, decorations that can be personalised with use, embellished with maturity and life.

The evolution of techniques and refinement bets on exclusive finishings. Qualities, colours and treatments nuanced by time and wear. Finishings and washings treat themselves to the power of differentiation, to seduce all markets. Engineered, partial, or subtly flowered, they blur, grow nuanced and reveal an incredible complicity between yarns and colours. Colour and surface irregularities are magnified to subtly break tactile and visual uniformity, with attenuated two-tones, printed shot-fabrics, and over-dyed cottons and silks. Denim is bedecked in greenish reflections. Plays on dyes, applications and scrapings play on the intimate relationship between permanence and degradation, intensity and diffuseness.



Products for the fluid and fancy universes. Dresses, skirts, sophisticated knit or woven small pieces, jackets and fancy suits for everyday or special occasions. A season of multiple temptations and paradoxes, where the attraction for discretion and refinement always favours decoration and fantasy. A complex elaboration of handles, weights and behaviours anchors the most sophisticated products in an "easy living" everyday, with decorations reconciling boldness and a thirst for simplicity. An ever more personal and cutting-edge creativity, in answer to the growing need for individualisation and originality.

interferences
Sportswear finishings inspire the universe of seduction. Silks adopt the washed and poorly ironed aspects of natural cotton. Ultra-feminine sat ins take on an already-worn allure, and voiles and silk pongee look slightly wrinkled. Washed-out aspects are interpreted in decorations and silks with graduated shot effects. Splotches are nuanced, colour is diffused. A belie f in fusion, with patterns blurred through blends of jacquards, prints and dye s.

vegetal
In homage to nature, fabrics highlight the vegetal fibre irregularities with refinement. Tweedy looks use slubbed cottons, linen roving yarns, raffia ribbon and straw sprigs in a primitive natural spirit. Precious slubs adorn silks and knits. Cotton/silk and linen/viscose blends impart a suppleness and controlled lustre to shantung aspects. Jacquards adopt vegetal fibres, and natural motifs alternate mattness and shine. Embroideries and cut yarns tame linen and cotton bases with authentic aspects, elaborated with all the know-how and virtuosity of the craftsman. Nature also inspires prints, interpreted with the precision of a botanist, o r very abstractly influenced by a microscopic vision. Leaves, plants and cellular motifs also invade laces and embroideries.

pared down
Sophisticated behaviours and calmed fantasy redraw a heightened minimalism in plays on ultra-plains, elaborated with the know-how of a n engineer-craftsman. Perfectly elaborated lightness valorises crunchy fabrics, unveiling tracing paper effects. Knit and woven voiles favour cotton/silk blends, revealing a semi-transparency enlivened by crpe ripplings, and decorated with plays on weaves. From shirting weights to coat weights, fabrics are monochromatic: jacquard knits, damasks, quiltings, matte/shiny fancy-woven tweeds, white-on-white prints or embroideries. Squarely neat piques, fancy wovens and linens show off square, grid and panama weaves. Precision and ultra-plain decoration are broadly develop ed in eyelet embroideries, where the density of patterns and complex openwork are elaborated to perfection.

two-toned
Two-tones are favoured to lend rhythm to geometrics, reinterpret tradition , re-look flowers, re-encode ornamentation or affirm hand-drawn lines . Jacquards, lace and embroideries have graphic decors, where simple colourways underscore the complexity behind these realisations. Such elaborations feature either strong contrasts, or completely nuanced ones , to calm or accentuate patterns.

synthesized
Patterns grow geometric, and the power of two- or three-toned graphics overtakes multi-colorations. Richer in colour, but always with a spirit of synthesis, a decorative purity with spruce accents is elaborated in all- over, is seen in well-defined flattened patterns, and schematises both floral and ornamental motifs.

bucolic
A country spirit ventures into all fabrics, and lightly livens up decorations . Natural linens softly ripple and are decorated with countrified stripes. A silky and cottony freshness favours crepons and seersuckers, and p lays on openwork in knits and embroideries. Patterns show off a sparkling gaiety, with miniature or generous field flowers scattered or spread out with vitality. Gingham checks are decked out in embroideries, prints and joyful colours.

A fresh take on romanticism is felt in decorations inspired by engravings. Cottony laces and embroideries are inspired by old-fashioned elaborations. Chambray is transposed in silks, or decorated with prints and embroideries.

jewels
Fabrics show off a jewel-like preciousness and sparkle. Silks, tweeds, linens and knits are scattered with fine gold. Metallic yarns make figureds and embroideries softly shimmer. Lace and guipure are jewel-like, without ever ceding to ostentation. Jacquards unfurl majestic patterns with distinct graphics and nuanced colourways. Plain and ornamental fabrics are decked in crystalline vibrations, revealing a totally sumptuous and fairy-like freshness.



Fabrics for structured products and the formal universe: men's and women's suits and sleeved items, city shirtings and knits, and structured dresses and skirts. Natural fibres are given pride of place for chicness and luxury that know how to be elegantly casual. The finest woolens, mohairs and even cashmeres are sophisticated by blending with linen in a noble vegetal spirit.

An alliance of cottony neatness and fineness set at the service of precise and ultra-drawn volumes. Knits stand out, impeccable and graphic. In colour wovens, the neatness of patterns and an outward simplicity dissimulate much refinement in weaves and colours. Weights grow lighter, right up to batistes and voiles in colour wovens, prints and plains.

vegetal
Linen is affirmed and sumptuously places its vegetal nature in the forefront through dry handles. Linen/cotton blends ally suppleness and density right up to ultra-material and luxuriously natural coat weights. Never this refined, linen blends update city suitings in yarn dyes, plains or mock solids. A vegetal touch also invites itself into traditional patterns and discreetly deformalises British codes. Cotton, either pure o r blended with linen, skillfully combines neat visuals and the natural irregularities of yarns. Lightly wrinkled or just washed weaves and finishings draw subtle inspiration from the casual universe.

impeccable
Cotton in its finest, densest version magnifies plains with perfectly smooth satins, mercerised cotton jerseys, and impeccable woven and knit piques. In shirtings, patterns grow miniature with precision, right up to semi- plains. A carefully-dosed technicity hides in the heart of fabrics for w ell- balanced behaviours that are both firm and light, with a touch of stretch for comfort and ergonomics, or stain-resistant finishings for easy care. Always perfectly matte, and with an amply material fineness, crepes adopt dry and lively handles, and harmonise fluidity and structure.

nobility
Wool shows off its prowess by growing lighter right up to semi- transparency, and refining itself to the nearly impalpable. Underneath classic visuals are hidden behaviours with a voluptuous lightness and softness. An austere and discreet opulence emerges in wool/silk blends, with calendered finishings, gleaming and luxuriously glossy. Dry and glazed mohairs cultivate round handles. Gleaming and matte yarn combinations draw imperceptible stripes.

graphic
Surfaces are enlivened with pared-downpatterns, stripes or windowpane checks with lines that are contrasted with precision on wool and cotton suitings. For shirtings, two-tones are complex, stick stripes and window pane checks are enriched by plays on weaves and tone-o n- tone coulours. Graphic stripes are affirmed, contrasted, symmetrical, tonic or softened. City knits are also enlivened with very graphic stripes, in toned-down or intense colours. A burst of energy appears on very neat white grounds, calm stripes sparkle with a vitamin-boosted liveliness while wider stripes unfurl in tutti-frutti multicolours.

country
Visuals inspired by ticking stripes, by denim and weaves evoking workwear all influence city suitings. In a truly luxurious spirit, cold an d fine wools adopt the almost black navies of Sunday suits, and the raw blues of indigo. The rippling preciousness of seersuckers and the graphic freshness of tickings are interpreted in definitively urban blends and behaviours . For shirtings, handkerchief checks and tartans are also calm, and freshened with colour. In prints, poplins and floral and stippled batistes are inspired by motifs of yesteryear.

nuanced
Extremely subtle blends of colour, moderated tones, alternating end-on-ends in tone-on-tone, lightened chines, checks and Prince of Wales with muted contrasts. In cottony blends, colour is present but always nuanced through chambray weaves, softened shot looks, neat and subtly attenuated two tones. On shirting bases, shadows are developed in large repeat, always with a greediness for subtly nuanced colour.




Fabrics dedicated to the sportswear and relaxed universes, for casualwear, jeanswear, workwear, and outerwear products, for tee-shirts and sweatshirts of course, and for plain, yarn-dyed or printed shirts and dresses.

The season expertly expresses the know-how and invention of the relaxed universe. Product sophistication emerges as the fruit of complex research, from yarns to finishings. The strength and subtlety of these developments lead to fabrics eloquently borrowing from the value of personalisation.

nuanced
In both sportswear and denim, colour is imposed as an element of personalisation. Layered dyes reveal weaves and patterns with intense dual tonalities for a highly subtle result: double dyes, colour impregnations, combinations of piece dyes, surface washings and scrapings, colour and indigo blends for denim. Indigos are modulated in varied tones, combined together, more purplish or more greenish, sometimes woven through with beige or grey to inflect blues. Weaves blend white with colour through chambrays broken down in neat or more rustic interpretations, as well as two-toned twills and herringbones for naturally whitened aspects. Colour is also tempered through scrapings and evenly washed- out finishings that allow the weave to show through.

controlled natural
A very controlled elaboration of slubs, rings and multi-count yarns , in cotton or in linen, disturbs structures. It creates deviations for the parallel nature of the weave, and lends a wavy look to fancy woven stripes. Short slubs, in wovens, draw crossings on plain woven or twill bases, and, in sportswear and denim, are revealed in soft washings. Cotton jerseys are enlivened by discreet slubs and ally vegetal aspects and soft handles. For shirtings, linen or cotton voiles are drawn with fine stripes.

country
In sportswear as in denim, patterns derived from tickings inspire small stick stripes and mattress stripes that tame cottony bases and the most authentic linen blends. In shirtings, pyjama stripes are softly shadowed or whitened on chambray weaves. Handkerchief checks and plaids are refreshed and underlined by small floral dobbies. In prints, tiny florals are scattered in small scale on poplins, plain weaves and cotton voiles, with washed and sometimes lightly wrinkled, finishings.

rippling
Washed, non-ironed aspects create a natural finish on cottons with fine and dense structures, while deliberately wrinkled visuals emerge on linens with looser structures. Controlled seersucker aspects, plays on subtle shrinkings and mini-cloques to lightly enliven plains or creponned colour-wovens in shirting weight. In knits, cloques, smocked stripes and metal yarns lend motion to surfaces and plays on stitches.

interferences
Prints enjoys overdyes and layers to create interferences and blur surfaces. Camouflage with unusual elements such as romantic flower s, folkloric bouquets, engravings and exotic references are layered pell-mell in unique concoctions.

thickened/lightened
A bit heavier or a bit lighter, the sophisticated elaboration of weights inspire new product destinations. Weighty linens and cottons, either sturdy, dense and firm, or, very limp, conserve their materialness . Fleeces, terries and mini bouclettes ally softness and neatness. Fine and creamy jerseys and viscose blends suggest a refreshing comfort. In contrast, plain weaves and cotton poplins are lightened, while conserving enough opacity and consistency for trousers, dresses or extra-light jackets. In refined shirtings, batistes and light poplins are necessarily softened, as if washed and already worn.

ultra-plains
Cottons with round and neat yarns, squares structures, with highly visual plain weaves, basket weaves and alternating orthogonal weaves to create a grid-like surface. In knits, neat piques, flat or light Richelieu ribs and peek-a-boo enliven monochromes. For shirtings, tone-on-tone weaves and highly-elaborated fantasy are unified through over-d yes, pigmentary prints and soft and regular washings.

neatness
Crunchy handles accentuate the neatness of poplins and cotton piques, with a densely fine structure. They lend consistency to feather weights, to cotton/polyamide blends, to polyurethane coatings and impregnations, and to bondings. Surfaces are smooth, without any apparent structure, either gleaming and lightly washed-out, or creamy and emerised. In denim, neatness is expressed in firmly-set weaves with fine yarns, with almost no apparent white, for surfaces that are evenly dark or, even more impeccably, with yarns and finishings with gleaming visuals.

two-toned
Exoticism and folklore are printed with a very graphic dynamism on light or solid cottons, while ethnic aspects grow geometric and are aligned in two-tones. Pique knits and neat jerseys draw graphic stripes, as in rugby or sailor shirts.



The technical and performance universe opens itself more each season to the transversality of product destinations. Techniques drawn from outerwear, active sportswear, beachwear and lingerie lend subtly hidden performance features to the entire wardrobe, thus entering seasonal fashion currents. This spring summer 7, technical fabrics appropriate decoration and fantasy, continuing to flirt with extremes through alliances of refined visuals and irreproachable functionality.

ultra square
Impeccably squared weaves veer off from plain wovens and basket wovens into ripstops and tone-on-tone chequerboards. Perforated fabrics are made geometric, and mesh is open-worked in square knits .

super city
Hidden performance features with a day-to-day allure, somewhat urban or casual, for high resistance and ready-to-wear products. A quite cottony mattness revealed through technical gabardines and plain wovens, tennis stripes and patterns inspired by suitings, but also trompe-l'oeil denims that liven up performance knits and wovens.

ultra-plains
Monochrome fantasy moves into technical products, interpreted in everything from activewear to lingerie. Knit and woven jacquards are adorned with plays on matt and shine, worked in light quiltings, waff led textures, laser engravings, tone-on-tone motifs, and synthetic lace an d open-work.

ultimate lightness
A second-skin look and fineness readapted with the pertinence of translucency and lightness. Crunchy and ultra-light waterproof taffetas, ethereal and matt two-way stretch, lingerie knits and wovens , which are both body-hugging and weightless, and matt or satiny visuals that are almost cosmetic,

performance codes
This season, Premire Vision has opted to illustrate two performance codes constantly evolving in the market, through a transversal product offer, which is intended both for a chic and relaxed everyday wear.

Anti-bacterial
Thanks in particular to seacell and bamboo blends, a s well as to specific treatment processes, technology today manages to achieve convincing results on a broad array of fabrics in this area. These materials are affirming their importance in sportswear trousers with cotton blends, where these fibres lend a luxurious gleam. In chic suitings, blended with wool, they completely respect the quality of visuals and handles. They are also blended with silk and worked in crepe. At the same time, this performance feature, which was initially adapted to knits and the lingerie universe, is beginning its ascension in woven city shirting products. To be continued...

Stain-resistance
Thanks to the evolution of chemical treatments an d nanotechnology, this performance feature and the well-being it brings today have found an important place in the improvement of everyday , and bring a true added value to comfort and easy-care. These functionalities are suited to fluid silks, to wool or linen suitings and cotton city shirtings. In sportswear, they slip inside body-hugging knits and synthetic or cottony trekking products in plain weaves and corduroys. Often invisible, and very rarely tactile, this quality is applied to products from all horizons and know-hows, and can be layered with other qualities such as stretch, water-resistance and breathability.

Publisher: Premiere Vision
Premier Vision is The World's Premier Fabric Show . It is to professionals what Paris is to Fashion ; a trends' capital where the colours and materials of a whole season are decided eighteen months in advance.
Published: October 2006
Region: france

DISCLAIMER
Information in this report relies on sources including Trade Shows, Associations, News Releases, Government Reports and other public sources. Infomat can accept no responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of such information or for loss or damage caused by any use thereof.

 

Premiere Vision



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