Harriet Quick, Sarah Harris and Emma Elwick tell you the latest from the catwalks at London Fashion Week. All photos are by Chris Moore.

London Fashion Week women's wear collections shown and reviewed include:
Central Saint Martins MA, Jean Muir, Katarzyna Szczotarska, Tristan Webber, Ashish, c.neeon, and B-Rude.


Central Saint Martins MA A/W 06


The MA presentation showed that Central Saint Martins is still London’s premier finishing school for young talent. Winner of the Harrods Design Award, Christopher Kane is already rumored to have been courted by the gilded house of Versace, which is not surprising after his high voltage presentation; hard-line cutting, “Like a Virgin” lace body stockings held together by golden rings, and daring mini skirts in blue, black and pink paired with Gianni-era cropped bombers in leather or white rabbit. Kane is a polished talent, who epitomises the tough sexy vibe so popular amid London’s young designers. Other collections to note included Molly Grad’s proportion play in refined shades of blue, grey and pale pink, and Gabrielle Day's fresh take on knitwear, which featured prettily decorated cuffs, waistbands and necklines on feminine floral cotton. EE

Jean Muir A/W 06


Celebrating the house’s 40th anniversary this year, Jean Muir’s design team took to the archives. In keeping with the celebratory mood, it was a collection that centred largely on eveningwear. Swingy cropped jackets and bubble skirts in silk taffeta had a couture feel so too did her elegant coats in Rococo brocade. Aside from the occasional bolt of purple and fuchsia her elegant palette didn’t stray too far from inky blue, black, mink and stormy greys. Muir’s original 70’s ladybird leaf print was reintroduced in the shape of silk georgette balloon sleeve blouses and pretty day dresses. Other standouts included black Bermudas trimmed in python, jersey mini dresses, cropped suede boleros and short jersey t-shirt dresses edged in sequins. SH

Katarzyna Szczotarska A/W 06


Katarzyna Szczotarska sent out a series of rolled hem t-shaped dresses that looked like they had air sucked out of them minutes before they made their debut, such was their bounce and weightlessness. The most delightful came in white chiffon; it had all the delicacy of a wispy cloud. On the tailoring front she showed pencil and bubble skirts in school-girl grey and teamed them with short sleeved blouses in white cotton and teal silk. Jersey culottes (an emerging trend) also featured. But by far the most entertaining look of the show came in the shape of a burlesque dancer dressed like a naughty secretary, who mid-way through the collection strip-teased on the runway to reveal pink sequin nipple tassels. SH

Tristan Webber A/W 06


What might an aristocratic assassin wear? Just ask Tristan Webber whose collection was inspired by her. His dresses were futuristic in mood; with their glossy patent inserts, some wouldn’t have looked out of place in Star Trek. In graphic black and white they were high-necked and skin tight, flaring out into knee-length or mini A-lines. His skinny-sleeved jersey tops were digitally printed and paired with tweedy or ivory wool jodhpurs. His operatic coats certainly looked cosy; one number was black velvet and had all the volume of a puffy quilt. After a 2-year hiatus, Webber’s show was a welcome return to the schedule. SH


Ashish A/W 06


Three times New Generation winner Ashish Gupta took his quirky trash-wit glamour to a new genteel level this season. Ladylike strapless sack dresses were finished with outsize bows; matte black sequin T-shirt dresses came with scarlet ribbons and satin gloves, and shimmering red carpet column dresses. For day there were Hitchcockian smooth tweed dresses with drop-draped detail and Lurex flecked bold plaid coats. A gentle fifties vibe permeated from the naïve sunflower appliqué prom dress and dazzling black sequin swing coat with moon white outsize buttons. His eye-popping sequins also made an appearance in baggy sportswear shapes; pussycat bow pewter cardigans were paired with cuffed tracksuit style trousers. His wit and wearablity transcribed to his men’s collection, with a grey marl tracksuit, complete with Boy Scout tie hooded top, easy flannel trousers and zip-littered coarse wool biker jackets. EE


c.neeon A/W 06


With the graphic lines and modernist prints of an obscure new wave album cover, Berlin-based designers Clara Kraetsch and Doreen Schulz gave a street savvy buzz to the final day of fashion week. Clubby hooded tunics and leggings came in Bauhaus color blocks, or printed with scratchy doodles on vivid pumpkin or emerald jersey. Unisex harem trousers in heavy-duty cotton looked fresh amid the techno second-skin looks, as did futuristic samurai style wrap-over tops and navy hoodies with hi–tec lime webbing. Muted bi-colour sage and cream kimono style dresses made a subtle addition to the signature paint box color palette. Taken apart, these casual pieces stamped in striking prints prove very commercial propositions. EE

B-Rude A/W 06


Boy George certainly had a lot to get off his chest in his first collection. Against the backdrop painting of a giant hand grenade he showed men’s and women’s wear with plenty of punch, not to mention controversial messages, like one black t-shirt with “who the hell is Anna Wintour? she asked” emblazoned across the front. Others, teamed with punky mini kilts took inspiration from health warnings on cigarette packs one read, “Fashion seriously harms you and others around you,” while another “In the wrong context, a pair of latex shorts can topple a fashion empire.” He also showed army printed combat gear, Marilyn Monroe style white fur coats and one sleeved t-shirt mini dresses printed with CND signs, enlarged safety pins, and insects and bugs. SH

Publisher: london fashion week
The British Fashion Council owns and organises London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards. It also seeks to help British designers to develop their businesses and has published Designer Fact File, a guide to setting up a designer fashion business and the Designer Manufacturing Handbook.
Web: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Published: february 18 2006
Market: mens womens
Region: england
Industry: apparel accessories

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