Harriet Quick, Sarah Harris and Emma Elwick tell you the latest from the fourth day of catwalks at London Fashion Week, Sunday 21st September. All photographs by Chris Moore.

Ashley Isham S/S 06


According to Ashley Isham, summer '06 is going to be one dressed up affair. He sent out a series of eveningwear looks that were so varied - while some were classically tailored, others were dazzling event gowns. There were white lacy summer dresses that oozed femininity, pretty pink shifts with prim ribbon waistband detailing and neat Forties pencil skirts with flippy hemlines, teamed with poison-green silk vests boasting romantic corsages. Even Isham's trenches were carefully considered; they came in delicate biscuit and ivory prints with doily-like laser cut-outs that graduated from the hem up. Meanwhile premiere-worthy gowns were floor-sweeping, with taupe chiffon wrap around tops, and figure hugging skirts emblazoned with bronze sequins. SH

Jean Muir S/S 06


Simplicity is Muir's signature. The famed minimalism and effortless cutting of Jean Muir's separates fit perfectly into next summer's pared down vision. Crepe skirt suits in delicate stone, dove and camel tones together with black, were either decorated with froufrou ruffles or given a fifties swing. The ladylike feel continued with bracelet sleeve shift dresses (surely THE dress shape of the week), raspberry red chiffon bell sleeves and flirty fuchsia bow peplums. A bold monochrome flower print added graphic punch and was seen on dustcoat style coats and on Roman holiday style circle skirts, as was a hothouse red floral print. EE

Ronit Zilkha S/S 06


Ronit Zilkha is an unashamed girl's girl through and through. 'Portrait of a Lady' style lacey romantic blouses were teamed with burnished bronze silk brocade city shorts, and topped off with jaunty period straw bonnets and black lace dresses - adding a boudoir thrill to the look. Deauville style stripe knits, navy and white printed sundresses and cute Scotty dogs evoked bygone summer holidays and pier-side chic. For the evening, sequin butterflies fluttered across delicate silver/grey chiffon tea dresses, while bird-of-paradise feathers trimmed straps and ruched the hem floor-length princess style gowns gliding down the catwalk. Neat cropped jackets and block colour shifts kept it modern not twee. EE

PPQ S/S 06


Black was bewitchingly back at PPQ, adding an air of mystery to the summer collections. Voluminous cotton sixties style smocks were pure Mia Farrow a la Rosemary's Baby. Somber in colour, but with an edible sweetness of shape - the baby doll mood continued with puffball floral print dresses with jet beaded collars and broderie anglaise. Chintz print, dragon-shaped bags and outsize baubles added a playful nursery school touch. The label has clearly progressed from its sportswear roots, but has kept the youthful joie de vivre with flat-fronted boyish trousers and blush-worthy hemlines. For the boys, a scrubbed up Pete Doherty rock look prevailed - with streamlined 'I'm with the band' white stovepipe denim, baby pink knits and natty braces. EE

Paul Costelloe S/S 06


Paul Costelloe proved that he still has the Midas touch with sharp tailored gold silk pencil-skirt suits with high-necked razor sharp pointed collars. The acute tailoring continued with sassy saffron satin that moulded to the body, and flirty lavender ruffles. A sexy black bandeau dress and taffeta trench showed that simple is often best. Known for his structured occasion wear (and many a proud mother-of-the-bride knows that Costelloe is a byword for flattering feminine suiting), unexpected treats included a youthful drop-waisted white cotton dress, strewn with rustic flower corsages, magenta retro style halter neck bikinis and playful outsized gypsy blouses that seductively slinked off the shoulder. EE

MAN S/S 06


Why should girls have all the fun? Topman and Fashion East brought fashion week to an exciting end with MAN. A ravenous crowd waited anxiously outside the Truman Brewery with anticipation - and it was worth the wait. Benjamin Kirchhoff kicked off with computer-geek chic; jelly sandals and socks, and eighties preppy chinos. Blousen cotton kimono-waisted shirts and palazzos added a breezy sophistication. Patrik Soderstam's collection, amusingly called 'Sod', featured extreme proportions and floor-skimming crotch jeans with patent panels - the feel was futuristic gangland warrier. Siv Stodal played with sports imagery, colour-co-ordinated terrace casual chic. Numerical photoprint knitwear and tracksuit suiting were shown off with cricket-style padding. Kim Jones gave a candy-coloured pop promo, with simple jersey seperates and grandad style long johns and all-in-ones. Topman Design was pure Miami Vice - chalky pastels, Jagger-style skinny denim in white, and Chain-gang stripes and kitschy palm-tree prints. Comme des garcons! EE

Publisher: london fashion week
The British Fashion Council owns and organises London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards. It also seeks to help British designers to develop their businesses and has published Designer Fact File, a guide to setting up a designer fashion business and the Designer Manufacturing Handbook.
Web: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Published: september 18 2005
Market: mens womens
Region: england
Industry: apparel accessories

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