The following research report contains market research, analysis, statistics and business intelligence relating to research on Women's Wear Industry In United Kingdom.

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ABSTRACT
Since 1990, the UK apparel industry has seen a 17% rise in sales. The largest growth in the market has been the specialized womenswear market, which has witnessed a 25% increase in sales over the same period. Consumer spending on clothing as a proportion of disposable income has dropped from 7.5% in 1986 to 5.9% recently. Retailers are now competing with shopping on-line, the increasing number of store chains, and the availability, and better quality of faddish or seasonal items. The popularity of other consumer goods and services, such as, computers, entertainment, leisure pursuits and mobile phones are other competitive factors that must now be considered.
This Industry Sector Analysis (ISA) report focuses on the womenswear sub-sector in view of the consistent increases in womenswear sales, which has led to growing opportunities for American companies with strong brand recognition in the UK. Key growth areas involve the plus size market, and the large clothing chains, such as Arcadia Group, that has over 850 retail stores.

Independent retailers are estimated to account for 16% of apparel sales, although few independent womenswear retailers are left on the high street. Most are in secondary positions or grouped together in areas of prevailing fashion, adopting a "safety in numbers strategy."

As one trade journal puts it "independents are having a very difficult time. The ones at the top of the market are doing well, their customers can carry on spending regardless. The ones in the middle are really struggling. The advice to most of them is to upmarket, and not try to compete with the multiples. They need to offer something that's different, there's too much competition for middle of the range merchandise."

Opportunities for American companies lie in their ability to spot a trend or a neglected segment of the industry. In recent years, London has seen an increase in American designer stores, such as Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. These and other American brands, such as GAP, are increasing in popularity and will continue to be accepted.

The direct mailing/marketing sectors still offer additional opportunities for American companies. This sales channel is becoming increasingly popular as more apparel companies begin to offer catalogs. Consumers respond well to direct mailing, and companies currently offering catalogs have experienced success in the UK. As family and business schedules become more hectic, a woman's personal time is often occupied by activities, other than shopping.
One age bracket, particularly influenced by direct mail, is the 55+ group. As a whole, this group dislikes the hassles attached to store-to-store shopping, and can be targeted with ease through direct marketing. Research suggests that being well dressed is of importance to nearly 63% of individuals ages 55 and over, and the number one reason why this group relies upon alternative means of shopping for the majority of their purchases is convenience.

The UK's apparel industry was traditionally production-minded, but is now marketing-minded. Successfully targeting customers is believed to be of higher importance than it was just ten years ago; lifestyle preferences are often the most prominent factors when targeting a consumer market. This "profile" includes a group's hobbies, interests, attitudes and social preferences. Instead of manufacturing only suits or evening dresses, suppliers now create collections covering a broad range of merchandise aimed at outfitting all of the clothing needs of a particular type of customer. Opposed to promoting only knits or tailored trousers, department stores now carry lines that appeal to a specific customer base, such as "Weekend Man" or "School Girl Style."

The European market is witnessing expansion within the all-inclusive shopping industry. Malls, which were once only found in America, are being constructed in the UK. Bluewater, Europe's largest shopping center, opened in March1999 just east of London. Bluewater houses approximately 330 shops and restaurants, and is divided into three distinct sections, each targeting the lifestyle preferences of a specific shopper.
Other highlights at Bluewater include a 12-screen Hoyts cinema multiplex with stadium style seating, an evening lounge and numerous bars, outdoor boating and ice skating, cycling, indoor rock climbing and late night entertainment.

The UK's retail market has been traditionally dominated by British and European designers, but due to the higher recognition of American manufacturers and designers, it will become increasingly easier for American products to enter the market. Heightened brand awareness and brand identity of these products is a major contributor to the success of U.S. companies in this market.
A. MARKET HIGHLIGHTS AND BEST PROSPECTS

The largest growth in the apparel market has been in womenswear, which experienced growth of 24.6% between 1990 and 1997. In 1997, retail sales were $35.4 billion. Growth would have been higher but for the economic slowdown of the early 90's. Womenswear is expected to continue to be the best performer in the apparel market, with future increases in sales volume of at least 12% by 2001.

The majority of imports sold in UK chain stores are sourced from Hong Kong. However, Indonesia and China have become increasingly more important to distributors of high-street merchandise. U.S. exports of apparel and textiles to the EU total $1.7 billion, of which apparel constitutes $394 million. Apparel exports from the United States to the U.K. total $117 million, making Britain by far and away the largest market for American clothes in Europe.

One particular segment that has scope for further development is the plus size market. In many ways the larger size is not distinct from the total womenswear market in the UK because of the clear requirements for young, stylish and fashionable clothes. Large size consumers want to see the same designer signature in their sizes as for regular stock.

Key trends for 2000 include:

Overall Mood: Fluidity and comfort: nomadic influence particularly India, the Mediterranean, Central Africa, Morocco and Japan: romantic femininity: mix and match separates, detail and embroidery: wrap and drape: nature and the garden.

Fabrication: Papery fabric, metallic fabrics, coated fabrics, waxed fabrics, crushed and heat mercerized fabrics; stretch knits; stretch and coated denim; threads trapped between double layers of fabric; cotton voiles; dry open weaves; machine-made fabrics which emulate antique garments.

Prints and Surface Detail: Pearl and frosted finishes; white over color as a highlight; origami folds pressed into garments; color blocking; painted fabric resembling the orient; huge Hawaiian floral and graphic prints; geometric prints such as polka dots and block prints; sheen and gloss; tie died wraps and skirts; tone on tone print to create dimension; modular dressing; fluid floral and watery leaf prints.

Tops and Shirts: Asymmetric necklines, three-quarter length sleeves, fitted shirts as a jacket; puffed sleeves, drawstring tops as layering pieces, tube tops, funnel necks, and the layering of sheer cotton T-shirts, tunics.

Trousers: Frilled hems, Capri pants, Turkish trousers, wide leg trousers, drawstring lounge pants, hipsters, low-slung trousers, one-piece trousers.

Skirts: Ballooning shapes, layered skirts, knee-length hemlines, sarongs and wrap skirts, apron-style skirts, bias cut skirts, long drawstring skirts, post-war new look wide, fluid and airy skirts, long skirts with a detachable pocket strap.

Dresses: Bandeau tube dresses, hand-knitted dresses with embroidered flowers, bias-cutting, detachable straps and pockets, fluidity, multi-layered dresses, puffed sleeves.
B. COMPETITIVE ANALYSIS

Prime areas for high-end retailing are Sloane Street in London's Knightsbridge and Bond Street. Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Timberland, Ralph Lauren have existing stores in this area and their presence in the UK is flourishing. The youth market especially loves brands and labels, thus the trend towards mass marketing of "designer" lines continues to grow. Due to the cost of designer goods, younger consumers rely on diffusion lines such as DKNY, CK, Tommy and YSL (Yves Saint Laurent). It also should be noted that these upscale designer names are also found in most of the larger cities in the U.K.
Prominent Stores in the UK include:

Arcadia Group
Arcadia is the largest specialist womenswear retailer. With over 850 shops such as Dorothy Perkins, Top Shop, Evans and Principles, Arcadia continues to make great strides in the womenswear market. Top Man, which carries exclusively menswear, is Arcadia's newest store chain.

Arcadia plans to increase their catalog sales by 10% in the year 2000, through direct marketing, and in its stores via a new joint venture with Littlewoods, a major U.K. catalog company.

Debenhams This leading department store chain has developed a distinctive womenswear offer, which unlike other department stores is primarily private label and includes a diffusion range from leading designers. This combination of own label merchandise and collections from outside of the store has proved successful and allowed for store expansion.

The Sears Womenswear Chains

This group's womenswear brands have shown a steady growth in turnover over the past 5 years, allowing for actual market share gain, despite the closing of several stores. This group caters to the youthful and trendy consumer, and stores include Miss Selfridges, Richards, Wallis and Warehouse.

Several more high street womenswear retailers such as Etam and River Island are continuing to feel the pressure as competition grows from mail order, and from other new competitors, including New Look, Matalan (a discount retailer) and Oasis, which have grown rapidly. New Look is estimated to account for 3% of total womenswear sales.

Marks and Spencer Plc.
Marks and Spencer has over 300 branches and is United Kingdoms largest multiple store However, the company announced their first profits decline in 30 years and is feeling the heat from their profitable competitors, such as The Gap. M&S reported full year profit figures of $1 billion for 1998 - a fall of 50% from 1997. Net debt at the Group level has increased from $480 million to $1.9 billion in 1998. This 100% private label retailer has prided itself on strong value, quality and customer service. Unfortunately for the company, there are more and more competitors penetrating the market, so Marks and Spencer is struggling to maintain customer loyalty. They have recently changed their "no credit card" policy, hoping to encourage tourists to make purchases.
Other American labels seen in the U.K. are:
Anna Sui
Anne Klein II
Ellen Tracey
Karl Kani
Michael Kors
Timberland
Liz Claiborne
St. John Knits
A.B.S. Sheri Bodell

Major U.K. department stores such as Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Harrods promote numerous American designer lines at their in-store concessions.
C. END-USER ANALYSIS

The 23.4 million females over age 13 in the UK comprise the market for womens apparel. This market is forecast to continue growing, aided by the rise in the number of teenagers. Nearly 6% women in the UK workforce wear some type of corporate or image-based apparel. This tradition represents continued opportunity for business separates and more fashionable business wear.

As always, long term trends are difficult to spot due to the season-to-season changes. However, the introduction of new fabrics (like tencel) and yarns have played an important role in the current styles. D. MARKET ACCESS

A duty of 14%, and competition from low-wage suppliers will limit opportunities for American firms at the lower end of the market. For customs and excise purposes, women's and girl's clothing are classified under the following subheadings;
Women's and Girl's ensembles - 610422
Dresses - 610441
Skirts and Divided skirts - 610451
Trousers and Breeches - 610461
Jackets and Blazers - 610432
Blouses, Tops and Shirts - 610610
The British Standards Institution has guides on the requirements for labeling, sizing, etc.
There is one legal requirement regarding the labeling of textiles. The label must bear an accurate description of the fiber content. This is an obligatory marking requirement. Washing instructions, size of garment and country of origin should be displayed, but must not be false or misleading information. This would result in a breach of the UK Trade Descriptions Act.

There are four main ways in which American companies may consider entering the UK market: (a) appoint an agent, (b) appoint a stocking distributor, (c) direct sales to large retailers, (d) open a subsidiary office. The Commercial Service can provide advice and assistance with all these options.

Key Contacts

The British Standards Institution
389 Chiswick High Road
London W44AL
Tel: 44 20 8996 9000
Fax: 44 20 8996 7400
Email: info@bsi.org.uk
www.bsi.org.uk

British Clothing Industry Association
British Fashion Council
British Knitting & Clothing
Export Council
5 Portland Place
London W1N 3AA
Tel: 44 20 7636 7788
Fax: 44 20 7636 7515
Email: bfc@dial.pipex.com
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk

British Leather Confederation
British Leather Fashion Council
BIC Leather Technology Center
Leather Trade House Kings Park Road
Moulton Park
Northampton NN3 6JD
Tel: 44 1604 679999
Fax: 44 1604 679998
Email: info@blcleathertech.com
www.blcleathertech.com

British Menswear Guild
1 Savile Row
London W1X 2JR
Tel: 44 20 7734 6211
Fax: 44 20 7734 6277
Email: director@british-menswear-guild.co.uk
www.british-menswear-guild.co.uk

Independent Footwear Retailers' Association (IFRA)
24 Fairlawn Grove
London W4 5EH
Tel: 44 20 8994 6259
Fax: 44 20 8742 2396
Email: ifra@netcomuk.co.uk
www.shoeshop.org.uk/

Publications

British Style Trader
Beacon Enterprises Ltd
Beacon House
2 Beacon Hill
London N7 9LY
Tel: 44 20 7609 5100
Fax: 44 20 7700 4368
Circulation: 8,000, quarterly

Draper's Record
Circulation: 13,200, weekly
Fashion Weekly
Circulation: 3,600, 8 annually

International Thompson Business Publishing
Greater London House
Hampstead Road
London NW1 7QZ
Tel: 44 20 7520 1500
Fax: 44 20 7837 4699
Email: lornah@fashion.emap.co.uk
www.emap.com
Fashion Forecast International
Benjamin Dent & Co. Ltd.
33 Bedford Place
London W1B 5JX
Tel: 44 20 7637 2211
Fax: 44 20 7637 2248
Email: itbd@itdbhquk.demon.co.uk
www.itbd.co.uk
Circulation: 12,000, twice annually

Fashion Extras
Reflex Publishing Ltd.
177A High Street
Tonbridge, Kent TN9 IBY
Tel: 44 1732 362445
Fax: 44 1732 362447
Email: Fabuss@mwfree.net
Circulation: 4,200

Fashion Monitor
32-38 Saffron Hill
London ECIN 8FH
Tel: 44 20 7405 4455
Fax: 44 20 7430 1089
Email: fashion@profsys.co.uk
www.fashionmonitor.co.uk
Circulation: annually for paid members

Key Note Ltd.
Field House
72 Oldfield Road
Hampton, Middlesex TW12 2HQ
Tel: 44 20 8481 8750
Fax: 44 20 8783 0049
Email: jnoble@icc.co.uk
www.keynote.co.uk
Key Note Ltd. publishes reports on the apparel industry in the U.K. every 12-18 months

Women's Wear Daily
Fairchild Publications
20 Shorts Gardens
London WC2H 9AU
Tel: 44 20 7240 0420
Fax: 44 20 7240 0920
Email: fallonjames@hotmail.com
www.wwd.com

Trade Promotions Opportunities

Pure Womenswear
Olympia, London
Date: February and August
The Pure Womenswear show offers the best opportunity to see over 400 labels in five distinct areas: Pure Designer, Pure Diffusion, Pure Classic, Pure Impact and Pure Accessories.

40¡
Olympia, London
Date: February and August
This show targets the youth market, covering clubwear, trendy streetwear and athletic-inspired clothing.

Organizer: EMAP Fashion (Pure Womenswear and 40¡)
Event Manager: Louise Young
338-346 Goswell Road
London EC1V 7QP
Tel: 44 20 7520 1500
Fax: 44 20 7417 2812
Email: pure@fashion.emap.co.uk
www.emap.com

Premier Collections
National Exhibition Centre (NEC), Birmingham
Date: February and August
This show targest the womenswear market.

Organizer: Emap Fashion
Event Manager: Louise Young
338-346 Goswell Road
London EC1V 7QP
Tel: 44 20 7520 1540
Fax: 44 20 7417 2812
www.emap.com

DISCLAIMER
Information in this report relies on sources including Government Publications, Opinions of industry experts and other public sources. Infomat can accept no responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of such information or for loss or damage caused by any use thereof. All prices subject to change without notice.

$3500 USD
For the 2008 Edition

Published: 2006 August
Market: Womens
Region: England
Industry: Apparel
Pages: 45
Delivery: 7-12 Business Days
SKU: infre0000309